Author: Martina Catzola
Date: 07-11-2025

 

In today’s hybrid marketplace, the cosmetics industry stands at the crossroads of transformation. This research was aimed to explore how women in Italy navigate the cosmetics market by identifying the main purchase drivers that influence their decisions, examining preferences between digital and traditional brands, analyzing favored purchasing channels (physical or online), and finally outlining actionable strategies for new entrants in the industry. Understanding these dynamics is important to analyze how digital-native brands and traditional beauty powerhouses coexist and compete in an ecosystem where brand identity, social influence, and consumer emotions play a central role in shaping purchase decisions. A deep dive into Italian women’s purchasing behavior reveals the complex balance between rational needs and emotional aspirations — and offers valuable clues for brands looking for growth.

The cosmetics industry is undergoing constant expansion, with the Italian market alone exceeding €8 billion in 2023 and over 7.4 million online consumers (Statista, 2024a; Human Highway, 2024b). In response to increasingly demanding customers, brands are integrating physical and digital channels to provide seamless, omnichannel experiences — a trend accelerated by the boom in social commerce.

Brand identity acts as a strategic lever influencing consumer decisions (Keller, 2008; Aaker, 1996). Beyond logos and visuals, brands embody personal values and reflect the consumer’s ideal self (Belk, 2013). Emotional and symbolic associations with brands are central in shaping trust and purchase intention. When it comes to purchase drivers, consumers are influenced by rational factors such as perceived quality, promotions, and product availability (Cosmetica Italia, 2023; Alvarez & Marsal, 2022), as well as emotional ones — including self-esteem, status, and gratification (Hill, 2010; Goleman, 1997; Anwar et al., 2020). Social influence and community engagement, especially through influencers and online reviews, further shape decisions.

Cultural and value-based drivers are also relevant, with increasing attention to sustainability, inclusivity, and brand ethics (Human Highway, 2024; Statista, 2024; European Commission, 2020).

Digital-native brands tend to attract young, dynamic, and socially engaged consumers (Binwani & Ho, 2019). Their strengths lie in personalization, adaptability, and speed (Ansa, 2021; Vogue Business, 2023). Traditional brands, instead, retain trust through physical presence and proven quality (Cosmetica Italia, 2023; Pascucci, 2024).

Today’s beauty consumers don’t just buy products; they form relationships with brands. Traditional brands benefit from historical reputation and a strong offline presence. They are often perceived as reliable and high-quality. Whereas Digital-native brands win attention with storytelling, influencer content, and seamless e-commerce. They attract younger, digitally active buyers, especially through platforms like TikTok and Instagram. Yet, while TikTok drives global beauty sales with one product sold every two seconds, 66% of Italians still prefer to purchase cosmetics in physical stores.

Whether it’s a traditional brand or a digital-first newcomer, what matters is the emotional resonance the brand creates. A strong brand becomes part of the consumer’s Extended Self — a reflection of their values, aspirations, and even daily rituals.

What used to be a one-way message from brand to consumer is now a conversation. Digital-native brands lead this shift with personalized content, user-generated reviews, influencer storytelling, and a strong sense of community. Traditional players, meanwhile, are evolving, blending their established reputations with increasingly omnichannel experiences.

This research adopted a mixed-method approach, combining qualitative and quantitative analyses. The qualitative phase involved 8 in-depth interviews with Italian women aged between 18 and 60, aimed at uncovering motivations, purchase habits, and the perceived role of different purchase channels (online vs offline). Key recurring themes from this phase were used to design the subsequent quantitative survey. The quantitative phase was conducted through a web-based CAWI questionnaire, collecting 310 responses, of which 210 were deemed valid for analysis. The objective was to identify the main purchase drivers, evaluate preferences between digital and traditional brands, and assess online versus offline shopping habits. The insights gathered were then used to define strategic guidelines for new cosmetic brands entering the market.

To delve into the emotional and symbolic dimensions of beauty consumption, a series of interviews brought to light how cosmetics are experienced by Italian women as more than just functional products. Skincare and make-up emerge as personal rituals—intimate moments of self-care that foster emotional balance and inner well-being. Routines are shaped by mood and sensorial preferences, with women seeking freedom of choice and pleasure through textures, scents, and tailored usage. A strong sense of trust surrounds traditional brands, linked to their tangibility and the reassurance of past positive experiences. In contrast, digital-native brands tend to elicit skepticism unless previously tested or endorsed by credible sources. Social media channels like Instagram and TikTok significantly influence product discovery and perception, but only when content is perceived as authentic and expert led. Consumers often adopt a multichannel approach to information gathering, combining reviews, technical sheets, and educational content to make more informed decisions. As for purchasing channels, physical stores are preferred for their immersive and tactile qualities, particularly when exploring new products, while online shopping is favored for its speed, convenience, and suitability for familiar, trusted brands.

The quantitative phase of this study was based on a sample of 210 valid responses from Italian women with diverse sociodemographic profiles. Most respondents came from Northern Italy (54.3%), with the rest split between Central Italy (23.8%) and Southern regions including the islands (21.9%).

In terms of age, the largest segment was between 18 and 24 years old (32.4%), followed by women aged 55–60 (21.9%), with other age groups represented more evenly.

Employment status varied widely: most respondents were employed (27.6%) or university students (25.7%), while others included unemployed women, freelance professionals, and homemakers.

Family structures also differed: one third of the women lived with a partner and children (33.3%), followed closely by those living with their parents (31%).

Shopping habits showed moderate engagement with cosmetics: 31.9% reported purchasing products once a month, 27.1% twice a month, and a smaller group (5.2%) bought weekly.

Most women spent between €21 and €50 per month, although nearly 10% declared spending over €100.

When it comes to pre-purchase behavior, the majority (53.8%) stated they always research before buying, 38.6% do so occasionally, and only a small minority (7.6%) admitted they never seek information before a purchase.

This diversity offers a reliable base to investigate patterns in cosmetics consumption across different consumer segments.

What Really Drives a Beauty Purchase?

According to the Factorial Analysis of consumer behavior, there are three key purchase drivers stand out:

1. Advice & Social Influence – Consumers rely on reviews, influencers, and social media when choosing new products, particularly digital-native ones.
2. Convenience & Price Sensitivity – Consumers rely on convenience and on the “Smart choice”.
3. Perceived Quality – Product effectiveness and brand image remain essential, particularly for more experienced or selective consumers.

Based on the three purchase drivers, four consumer segments were identified thanks to a Cluster Analysis K-means:

• The Advice-Seekers
  They place high importance on influencer endorsements and sponsored content. Among all segments, they show the highest purchase frequency and monthly spending. They express a strong preference for digital-native brands, and their buying habits span across perfumeries, department stores, social media platforms, drugstores, and e-commerce websites. This is a digitally connected and highly influenced segment, deeply engaged with online content and social trends.

• The Convenience Lovers
  Motivated by convenience (price, promotions), but also attentive to product quality. Their purchase frequency and monthly spending are moderate to low. They buy both digital and traditional brands, and frequently shop in drugstores, pharmacies, and occasionally via e-commerce platforms. This is a hybrid segment, sensitive to the best value-for-money ratio and driven by practicality.

• The Quality Seekers
  Highly attentive to product quality and effectiveness. They purchase with moderate frequency but have a high monthly spending. They show a clear preference for traditional brands, perceived as more solid and trustworthy, and primarily shop through traditional channels such as perfumeries and pharmacies. This segment seeks reliability and well-established brand reputations.

• The Disinterested
  Low involvement, low monthly spending and purchase frequency, with no particularly dominant purchase driver. They show no strong attraction to any specific brand type and have limited knowledge of both traditional and digital brands. There is a slight preference for traditional purchase channels. This is a low-priority segment for cosmetic brands, with limited strategic relevance, as they are simply not interested in the product category, making it ineffective to target them through marketing initiatives.

Strategic Focus: Engaging the Advice-Driven Consumer

For brands aiming to connect with the Advice-Driven segment — digitally native, highly influenced, and community-oriented — the key lies in building authentic relationships and creating an ecosystem where discovery, interaction, and participation converge. This cluster is perfectly suited for digital brands. These consumers don’t just want to buy a product — they want to be part of a brand story that reflects their identity and values. Here’s how a tailored marketing mix can make that happen:

1. Product
   The product becomes a form of self-expression. Capsule collections, limited editions, and strong storytelling create emotional resonance, while curated, “Instagrammable” packaging enhances shareability. Mini-sizes and full transparency about ingredients and benefits address both aesthetic and informational needs.
2. Price
   A masstige pricing strategy (prestige and mass market) ensures high perceived quality at an accessible price point. Selective promotions targeted at the community help stimulate engagement and loyalty without diluting brand value.
3. Place
   Owned digital channels such as e-commerce platforms and mobile apps must offer a seamless, mobile-first user experience. Social media becomes more than a marketing tool — it serves as a space for exploration, connection, and purchase.
4. Promotion
   Marketing communication is designed as a dialogue with the community. This includes trust-building content, micro-influencer collaborations, educational features, challenges, and interactive formats. User-generated content reinforces credibility and social proof.
5. People
   People are the heart of the brand. Empowering consumers as co-creators and ambassadors strengthens emotional connection. Active listening channels and feedback loops turn customers into loyal advocates.
6. Process
   Customer Relationship Management and personalized communication systems ensure every interaction feels tailored and meaningful. Automated follow-ups, adaptive recommendations, and continuous feedback cycles enhance customer satisfaction and brand affinity.
7. Physical Evidence
   Visual consistency across website, social platforms, and packaging reinforces brand identity. Photogenic, well-designed packaging and a clearly visible review section contribute to transparency and perceived reliability.

Strategic Focus: Winning Over the Convenience-Lovers

Practical, efficient, and value-conscious — Convenience Lovers prioritize ease, clarity, and cost-effectiveness without compromising on quality. Hybrid brands perfectly fit this cluster. They don’t seek prestige or elaborate storytelling: they want functional solutions that work. For this segment, success lies in removing friction and enhancing access across every step of the experience. Here’s how to build a tailored marketing mix that speaks directly to their needs:

1. Product
   Offer an essential yet complete product range, organized by function (e.g., dry skin, anti-aging), so that consumers can easily identify what meets their needs. Simplicity is key: known ingredients, readable packaging, and clear claims build trust quickly. Practical formats — such as dispensers, wipes, and travel-size versions — add further convenience and portability, aligning perfectly with this segment’s everyday routines.
2. Price
   For this group, price is about making a “smart choice” — good quality at a fair cost. Promotions should be recurring and easy to understand, such as bundles or family-size formats. The goal isn’t just to save money, but to communicate efficiency without compromise. This reflects a lifestyle built on practicality, not deprivation.
3. Place
   Accessibility is everything. Products should be available wherever this consumer shops: e-commerce platforms, drugstores, and other easily reachable outlets. Visibility on the shelf matters more than being part of exclusive or luxury channels. The brand must be easy to find — it should “show up,” not require consumers to search for it.
4. Promotion
   Forget abstract branding campaigns — what works here is clear and concrete communication. Focus messaging on tangible benefits, offers, and straightforward product claims. Reviews and social proof should be visible and easy to interpret. The tone of voice must be direct and no-frills, reflecting how this audience processes information: fast and efficiently.
5. People
   This segment values efficient, non-intrusive human interaction. Staff should be helpful and discreet, offering quick and practical information rather than polished brand speeches. Digital support tools like chatbots, FAQs, and tutorials can provide added assistance. The brand voice should feel close and approachable — never distant or overly professional.
6. Process
   A smooth shopping experience is critical. This means organized shelves by need, easy-to-navigate websites, and removing unnecessary steps. Every point of contact should help the consumer save time and avoid frustration — convenience is not just a benefit; it’s the core expectation.
7. Physical Evidence
   Presentation matters — but function comes first. Packaging should be practical, with clear visuals and simple design that enhances usability. All touchpoints (online and offline) must maintain visual coherence. In-store, an orderly display organized by function makes the decision process quicker and more intuitive.

This strategy reflects the mindset of Convenience Lovers: they seek brands that respect their time, budget, and attention span. By offering high-quality essentials through accessible channels, with clear communication and streamlined processes, brands can build long-term trust without flashy promises — just consistent, tangible value.

Strategic Focus: Earning the Trust of Quality Seekers

Quality Seekers represent the most discerning and brand-conscious segment. The perfect brand for this cluster is a traditional brand. These customers are not driven by trends or price wars — they look for highly quality formulas, expert guidance, and proven effectiveness. For them, every purchase is an informed decision rooted in trust, safety, and transparency. Here’s how a targeted 7P marketing mix can meet their expectations:

1. Product
   The product offering must be based on advanced, clinically tested formulas that guarantee high perceived quality. Transparency is key: ingredient lists should be clear and accessible, while packaging must be sober, informative, and reassuring. To reduce purchase hesitation, free samples and mini sizes should be offered to allow safe testing before commitment.
2. Price
   This segment accepts a premium price point, as long as it’s justified by the perceived value. Price is not a barrier — it’s a signal of credibility and product integrity. The strategy must focus on value over volume, emphasizing long-term benefits and superior performance.
3. Place
   Distribution should be limited to authoritative, trusted retail channels, such as pharmacies and perfumeries. These environments naturally convey expertise and seriousness, reinforcing the perception of safety and reliability in the consumer’s mind.
4. Promotion
   The tone of communication must be sober, informative, and credible. Instead of aggressive selling, brands should focus on educational content, supported by collaborations with experts (e.g., dermatologists or scientists). Digital channels should serve to inform and guide — not to push the purchase.
5. People
   In-store and online staff should be well-trained, empathetic, and competent. Quality Seekers value trust-based relationships, which require active listening, personalization, and genuine advice. Human interaction becomes a key part of the experience, reinforcing confidence in the product and the brand.
6. Process
   This is not an impulsive shopper — the process must be guided and reflective. Offering skin diagnostics, free consultations, and test opportunities allows for informed decisions. Post-sale follow-ups and professional information (QR codes, product sheets, brochures) add further reassurance and depth.
7. Physical Evidence
   The look and feel of all brand elements must be professional, minimalist, and clean. Think neutral colors, scientific visuals, and technical labels. Point-of-sale materials should be neatly organized, with easy-to-read information to support in-store decision-making.

For Quality Seekers, beauty is not about trends — it’s about trust, performance, and expertise. This marketing strategy speaks to their desire for clarity, safety, and value, ensuring every touchpoint reinforces confidence in the brand’s integrity and product quality.

As the market becomes increasingly fragmented, brands must make strategic choices. Not all consumers offer the same return on investment — and not every segment deserves equal attention. Among the four identified profiles, Advice-Seekers, Convenience Lovers, and Quality Seekers emerge as the most strategically relevant. They are active, engaged, and responsive to tailored brand experiences. Each group has distinct expectations and behaviors — and each calls for a dedicated marketing mix that aligns with their mindset, habits, and values.

On the other hand, Disinterested consumers show low involvement, limited spending, and a general lack of interest in the category. Their minimal engagement renders them a non-strategic audience, making marketing efforts largely ineffective. Brands looking to optimize resources should exclude this segment and focus instead on high-potential groups that drive both short-term conversion and long-term loyalty.

Ultimately, the key to market success lies in precision marketing: developing one or more targeted brands with a coherent and differentiated strategy. By understanding what truly drives each segment — from emotional connection to functional convenience — brands can build value propositions that go beyond the product itself and resonate with real consumer needs.